Friday, September 30, 2011

Spotlight: Jean Claude Biver.

Hublot's CEO Jean Claude Biver has brought Hublot to new highs.  His creative direction and innovations have launched Hublot into the forefront of the industry. The introduction of Hublot's Big Bang is credited with seducing the public's perception and making big watches "cool". These interviews with Mr. Biver illustrate his charismatic delivery as well as his genuine passion.



I've said before to always buy the dealer before the watch. In this case, buy the passion and devotion of the CEO and know the brand will always hold it's place.


-JKS

The Perfect Datejust?

Rolex Datejust 116201

I've expressed my immense boredom with the token two-tone Rolex Datejust w/champagne dial. I've also stated that I do like certain DJ configurations. The following pictures depict a watch belonging to a forum member (bsodmike). I love the design of this Everose Rolex Datejust with Oyster bracelet. While, I am not a diamond dial kind of guy, this piece is stellar! It is elegant yet exudes masculinity.





All photos belong to Bsodmike.
-JKS

Spotlight: Unusual Rolex Precision (Great Value!)

 Rolex Precision model: 9083
This is a new one for me! I have never seen a Rolex Precision in this style . Please note that this piece does not have the typically head or lug configuration. This watch dates to 1956 and features a typical waffle dial as well as pencil-type hands. One would expect to pay a premium on such a nice vintage (w/extras) however this item sold for only $1999.00 on a well known auction site.





-JKS
(P.S I am still accepting donations to cover the $97,000 price for the  Panerai 3646 J/K)

Thursday, September 29, 2011

Macro lens for your iphone.

I have another forum find.  Macro lens available for the iPhone. These actually takes some nice shots. They can be purchased on the bay for pretty cheap approx $20.


-JKS

Double Wrist Shot!

First thing first.  My previous post on wearing two timepieces is to be ignored. I was looking through the VRF (Vintage Rolex Forum) and came across some amazing shots. 




The above is acceptable :)

-JKS

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

My Watch Fund Is A Little Short.

So, my watch buying fund is a little short for a purchase of this magnitude.  Despite wanting this piece badly, I just can't do it but maybe one of you guys can pull this purchase off. This is an original 1940 (Rolex) Panerai 3646. It is being offered for $97,500 USD. As most Swiss Monsters know, this is a super rare opportunity! These vintage Panerai's do not hit the market often and when they do it is typically at an auction house (Sotheby's, Christies, Antiquorum etc.) I would LOVE to own this but just can't unclench my first of this kind of cash. I am writing this to give viewers a chance to consider it. If one of you guys purchase this, please give The Swiss Monster an exclusive interview!

Seller's Description:  For Sale: Very, very rare and original 1940 Panerai 3646 Type B with Oyster Watch Company case, serial 1010024, one of the very last before the Type C watches were issued. The identifying feature of this case is the stamped caseback which is completely different than the Type A and Type C cases. This is a very, very rare watch and one of approximately 12 known to exist today! Many serious Panerai / Rolex collectors believe their collections are not complete without inclusion of an Oyster Watch Company caseback.

The movement is the original Rolex Cortebert cal. 618 movement and it matches the caseback number. The "FLOTMAS 038" engraving on the caseback is rare and defines this watch as a true war watch. The correct steel hands and dial have a lot patina and are stunning! The patina'd white RADIOMIR PANERAI lettering is also a stunning color.

The case is in very good condition. The plastic crystal has some light scratches but the dial is easily read. The watch has a tubular Oyster crown, just like many of the watches of this era. Maybe it had an onion crown originally and during a service it was changed. This is what is believed happened often, as spare onion crowns were hard to get during and after the war.

This is your chance to own one of the few remaining 3646 Type B Panerai watches! Price: $97,500 including insured shipping worldwide. 100% refund within 5 days if not as described. I have many Panerai and Rolex references.




-I'll gladly accept donations

Tag Heuer.


I just saw one of these in the wild.
Interesting.

-JKS

N.Y Watch Dealers Reviews!

Alright Guys, I just came back from a weekend trip to N.Y.  My objective while in the city was to visit as many Vintage/Modern Watch Dealers as possible.  I am  happy to say that I visited most on my list.  I found that many of the dealers were extremely knowledgeable and qualified while others were sub-par.  It is my opinion that I should share my findings to the readers of this blog. It seems so many other sites are afraid to offer reviews on Dealers/Boutiques.  I promised to offer my true opinions and this is one more fulfillment of this.  I would like to preface by saying none of the dealers I visited were rude or dismissive and every shop I visited had a courteous staff.

Rating System
I have come up with a rating system which uses a common term "Lumes".  As most WIS (Watch Idiot Savant's) know lume is the modern luminescent/glowing material used on dials.  Just as a watch has twelve main numerical indicators (1-12 o'clock).   I will rate the dealers I visited with 1-12 Lumes. 1 being the lowest and 12 being stellar.  The Lumes a dealer receives will be based upon service & inventory (6 for Service 6 for inventory).


Central Watch
40 East 45th Street
New York, NY 10017-3190

The first shop I visited was within stepping distance of my hotel (The Roosevelt).  This shop has been in business since 1952 and has been located in the same part of Central Station since it's opening.  It is important to note this shop does not have an impressive walk in showroom with fancy or ornate fixtures.  This shop is essentially a concession stand located within a corridor in Central Station.  This was initially confusing and disappointing.  However, after a closer look at the inventory and a few words with a salesman, I was wonderfully surprised.  Amongst the selection were some unusual and amazing timepieces, such as an : Omega Pre-Pro/Moon Speedmasters, an early Rolex sterling cushion-shaped watch with Fleur De-lis hands as well some other beautiful vintage pieces by Patek Phillipe and Audemars Piguet.  Central watch also had an awesome array of straps. Including all thing NATO (Seriously, every NATO strap a man could want!). It was the salesman and Owner who were, in my opinion, the shops biggest assets. T hey were extraordinarily knowledgeable and genuinely happy to discuss vintage timepieces.  Their passion came through but did not lead them to be pushy or even necessarily eager to push a sale. They graciously retrieved pieces to show me that were displayed and even showed some pieces that were put away.  The salesman instantly recognized my Rolex 6234 and paid a compliment.  The owner of the shops were even happy to tell me other shops I should visit in the area.

I would have to award Central Watch  with a total of:
6/6 For service.
4/6 For inventory.
10 Lumes! (I highly enjoyed my visit and definately recommend visiting!!)


 
Aaron Faber Gallery
666 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10103
On West 53rd Street, between 5th and 6th

The second shop on the list was the Aaron Faber Gallery.  This shop is internationally known and respected. The shop has been in the business since 1974 and specializes in contemporary studio jewelry, classic jewelry new and old, and collectible vintage timepieces.  The lay-out of the shop was also surprising to me.  It was not stuffy with the timepieces behind a large counter with armed guards. The timepieces and jewelry were displayed on the walls and in table top cases (Please note I do not mean to insinuate this store is not secure-quite the contrary!).  Upon walking into the gallery a Saleswoman introduced herself and expressed a genuine eagerness to help. I told her I had a specific interest in vintage Rolex timepieces and she ushered me to "The Wall".  Featured within were some of the most amazing pieces I saw on my trip.  The timepiece that immediately captured my attention was a Rare Rolex 6036.  I asked to see the piece and the saleswoman happily obliged. I held the piece and was amazed at the detail of the so-called "Jean Claude-Kiley".  I compared it to my 6234 and was amazed to compare the similarities and differences (The most obvious the added complications of Day, Date,Month and the case in yellow gold).  The dial was in such a beautiful state, I asked if it was original to the watch or if it had been replaced/restored.  The saleswoman gladly walked in the back and asked the watchmaker.  The answer was :"Yes Sir, Completely Original!" I carefully handed the piece over to the salesperson.  While, I would have loved to add the watch to the collection the timing is not right (My timing, that is).  Another piece I asked to see what an awesome Rolex 5517  Royal Navy Military Submariner (less than 1300 examples produced).  The piece was amazing. The solid fixed bar lugs were very cool to see in person, as was the special dial and hands.  Amongst the collection were various beautiful modern Patek Philippes as well as a few vintage Audemars.  The saleswoman informed me that the collection I was viewing was not complete, as some of it had been brought to a show in Hong Kong. Please visit the video link below for more on the Aaron Farber gallery.

So it's rating time.  I would have to award Aaron Farber Gallery with the following:
Service  6/6 Lumes
Selection 6/6 Lumes
12/12 Lumes! Definitely recommend. Please note the MOMA (Metropolitan Museum Of Modern Art) is just steps away!


Wempe Jewelry

700 5th Avenue
New york, NY 10019-4145


The third shop on the list was Wempe. Wempe is an old European jeweler that has been in business since 1878. The shop is an authorized dealer for Rolex, Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Sohne, Patek, Hublot, Paneriai, Audemars Piguet+.  There is not much to say about this shop.  It is huge and the salespeople were not extraordinarily helpful and from what I can assess knowledgeable, but their inventory was extensive (with the exception of Vacheron Constantin). My judgement may be a bit harsh, but this is a premiere dealer is one of the most significant cities in the world. While there I asked to see one piece, this was the Hublot King Power. I literally had to ask a salesperson to help me. I inquired first about an awesome Hublot holographic display and then about a King Power. The Saleslady retrieved the piece and then stared and awaited a question.  So, I fed her one "Does this feature Hublot's in-house movement?" She responded "I'm not sure." she turned to the salesperson walking around aimlessly and asked "Does this timepiece have the Unico Movement?".  The other salesperson looked at the piece and said "Yes." I thought  to myself, at least they know about the Hublot in-house Unico.  I then looked at the Rolex section and wasn't helped or asked if I was looking for something again.




So Wempe's rating :
Service  3/6 Lumes (Mention of a specific caliber helped)
Selection 6/6 Lumes


9/12 Lumes.  Huge selection! Not that great of a staff IMHO.


Cartier Boutique
653 Fifth Avenue
New York, NY 10022
I have to be honest.  I am not a huge fan of Cartier watches with the following exceptions: The Cartier Santos, Tank Americaine + Some of the ornate jeweled pieces and any tourbillon pieces.  I walked directly over to the watch department and was greeted promptly.  I expressed an interest in a Tourbillon  and was allowed to handle and urged to try it own.  The Salesman was a very friendly guy and seemed passionate and proud of his employer Cartier.  I enjoyed my brief look around and was mesmerized by the beautiful store. I will not rate this boutique because of insufficient watch related material/variation.  I would definitely recommend visiting.


Tourneau 
510 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10022 
 The fifth shop on the list was Tourneu.  What can I say... I am always amazed at the complete lack of knowledge the people employed here seem to have.  I have visited probably five locations and it is the same story at all. I walked into the store on Madison Ave and hoped for a different level of service but unfortunately was met with the same upset. Immediately upon entering, I was hounded by a hungry Saleswoman. She seemed disheveled and in my opinion, overly aggressive.  I asked if there were any vintage Rolex timepieces. "Yes, we have quite a few."  I was brought into a nook with three other salespeople. I spotted a book on vintage Rolex Chronographs(Thinking to myself this is right up my alley!)  I looked inside a glass display in the center of the room that housed their "pre-owned" pieces.  I looked up and said "Oh, I meant vintage, not pre-owned."  The salesperson to the right of me said "There's one in there from 1940 or something." I said "OK-I'll have a look."  They show me a Precision from the 1960's for $3,000.  I reply "Ok. No thanks. Do you guys have any vintage chronographs or any rarer pieces?"  The two salespeople looked at each other as if I had asked for Frog-guts on a silver platter.  The other salesperson chimed in by saying "We have one just like this! (while pointing to the picture of a 3-color Paul Newman Cosmograph on a Mondani book cover).  My eyes lit up! The other Salespeople replied "We Do?"  "Yes", he responded "It's upstairs but it's  a brand new one" (This is where I exited deflated and depressed.)


So rating total: 6 Lumes. 
Lots of inventory but not much intelligence.


Officini Panerai Boutique 
545 Madison Ave # A
New York, NY 10022-4219
Sixth on the list was the Panerai Boutique.  .I would definitely purchase an original Panerai especially the Radiomir 3646's (At a good price).  I would also be interested in purchasing a piece, if it were a Boutique special-edition(Update** I have purchased a Pam 390***).  I walked into the Panerai store and was greeted by a Saleswoman and was asked if I was looking for something in particular. I asked if there were any pieces exclusive to the Boutique.  I was shown a gold Radiomir that didn't really do it.  I continued to look around and noticed that there was more inventory in the window than in the store. Seriously, there were like 20 total pieces! I asked if this was the complete showroom (didn't want to miss a room!). The Saleswoman informed me most of their pieces were Special Order .  I nodded and replied " I see."  The saleswoman just stared at me with a placid look on her face.  I thanked her and walked out.  It was then I noticed an interesting piece in the window. A Panerai Egiazano model Pam 341. My Girlfriend's eyes lit up. It truly was an interesting piece. We walked back in and asked to see it. The saleswoman gladly retrieved it from the window and allowed us to have a look. The piece was really quite beautiful. It is HUGE 60mm. I asked her what she knew of it. I was familiar with the history but assumed she would surely tell me something interesting. She responded "It was made for The Egyptian army in the 1960 or 70's." I replied, "There was also another made for the Egyptians, a small Egiazono correct?" The saleswoman replied "No, this is the only one I know about." I let this go seeing most people may not know of the historical contributions of a company they worked for. I noticed the piece was really light weight. I asked what it was made of? The Saleswoman responded "Stainless Steel." I flipped it over to notice engraved in the back the word "TITANIUM". 

So it's rating time. At a Boutique I expect a higher level of knowledge.  This knowledge should include historical facts with accuracy (Especially for a brand that lives on there past!)  I also expect quite a selection. The selection was comical! I would also expect to see an original 1930's or 40's Panerai displayed. I mean Ralph Lauren has one at his N.Y.C store!


Service  4/6 Lumes
Selection 3/6 Lumes (I've seen larger personal collections!)
7/12 Lumes (Don't waste your time. Just go to Tourneau.)


 -JKS

Excuse the typos. I intend to revise. I wanted to post this to share as soon as possible.


Remember to check my Video Review of Las Vegas Dealers HERE.

Rolex Cortebert 618

There is an interesting piece available for purchase on the bay, a beautiful Rolex Caliber 618. This movement was made by Cortebert and refinished/reworked by Rolex. It was featured in their pocket-watches as well as the early Rolex-made Panerai's such as the iconic 3646. I have seen many Cortebert 616 movements available for sale. I even own one, but a 618 which is essentially a 616 highly-refinished and branded by Rolex is super rare.


Video Below: Cortebert 616.



-JKS

Definition: W.I.S

WIS/W.I.S- Watch Idiot Savant.
 
Usuage: I suffer from WIS-Itis.

Diagnosis: One may be a WIS if:

1. One spends an hour on a watch-related forum.
2. One finds them self staring randomly at their timepiece without reading the time.
3. One has continued to read this post.
4. One defines WIS on a watch-related blog.

-JKS

Random Fashion No's!

Alright everyone, it's time for another post on fashion Faux-pas. I've stated before, I am by no means a fashion Guru. I simply know what looks great on me and what looks awful on others. I typically wear what has been called a uniform. This uniform consist of : A Polo shirt with pressed khakis or jeans and dress shoes. This ensemble always is coordinated to compliment my timepiece.


So, Today's Date Is September 28th 2011

I would like this to be known as "Anti-Spiedel Bracelets Day".
These stretchable pieces of _____ have plagued the world of watches for too long. It seems many wearers adopted the bracelets after their original band broke or became stretched. The notion of "One size fits all" was very alluring and seemed at first to be the perfect fix. However, these wearers, who fitted these craptastic bands on their fine Swiss pieces, forgot one very important thing; they are hideous! Over the years the bands yellow plating looses its luster and descends into a murky shade; it's stretch links are filled with dirt and debris and most horrific-they end up scratching the watches lugs!
In the past I have made a point to say that certain age groups are exempt to certain fashion faux-pas. Sorry Guys and Gals, a Spiedel stretchable band is not acceptable on any Swiss or fine-made Timepiece. I think what has set me off, is the fact that I recently came across a beautiful white gold Patek fitted with a Spiedel band. This band made the Patek look cheap. This is a feat I did not know was possible. It also left marks on the lugs and in between, in my eyes De-valuing the piece.

So, If you have a Spiedel band (I'm sure no Swiss Monsters do), remove it and destroy it. I have found the best way to retire these vulgar pieces is to use pliers. Though scissors can be equally rewarding.





Ps. I know one would like to try the destructive method below. However, I have found the results very unsatisfactory.



-JKS


Tuesday, September 27, 2011

New! Video Review: Rolex

Hello fellow Swiss Monsters, I have a video review on the Rolex 6234 & Rolex 116520. The video should be up shortly.

A Re-post: For Watch-Fanatics & Those Trying To Understand.





It's Bay Watch Tuesday. (2)

It's Bay Watch Tuesday Again!


Sorry Guys, Not that Bay Watch! Ebay!


As promised every Tuesday I will pick two amazing timepieces offered on the bay. The first piece was celebrity-owned and is dazzling!

Rolex 6034 in 18k
Seller's Description:
This is the nicest Rolex chronograph that I have ever seen. The condition is literally perfect - still in new condition after 60 years! The 18k rose gold case and the original untouched dial are in mint++ condition. Even the 18k rose gold Rolex Oyster bracelet is in perfect condition. This watch was owned by Eric Clapton, before he trimmed his collection a few years ago.
  Original 18k rose gold case measures 35mm diameter by 13mm thick. Domed acrylic crystal. Smooth bezel. Round pump style chronograph pushers and screw down crown. Inside case back is marked '6034' along with the other markings and hallmarks.
  Serial number 765XXX dates the watch to 1951.
  Original, untouched and perfect condition dial is matte silver with applied rose gold arabic numerals and hour markers. Dial text is: 'ROLEX' 'OYSTER CHRONOGRAPHE' and 'ANTIMAGNETIQUE'. There is a tachymeter scale around the dial's periphery in black and inside that, a Telemetre scale in blue. The subdials are slightly sunken with concentric guilloche.
  Original movement is the manual winding Rolex Caliber 72 with 17 jewels and column wheel construction. The movement is in perfect condition and is running well. 



 This piece is offered at $110,000. Link 



Patek 5936
Though this is not celebrity owned it has a celebrity connection. This is the watch that keeps Warlock time, as told by Charlie Sheen.


Above a Wrist-Shot by Charlie Sheen.

Seller's Description: Patek Philippe pays homage to their great perpetual calendars of the past with the reference 5396. The arrangement of the calendar displays on the dial is very classic. Yet, the 5396 is modern, incorporating all of Patek's mechanical innovations and in a modern size 39mm case. This watch is a home run.
Inspired by Patek perpetual calendars of yesteryear, the sector dial features two-tone silver finishing with dark printed 5 minute, minute and seconds chapters around the periphery of the dial and perfectly blued sword hands. The day and month are shown in the dual windows below "Patek Philippe Geneve", while the moonphase and 24 hour time are displayed in the 6 o'clock subdial. The date is shown in the window at the bottom of the dial. You need to loupe this dial to appreciate the rich details and the amazing design and finish.
The case is 18k rose gold with dimensions of 39mm diameter by 11.5mm thick. Sapphire front and display back crystals.
The automatic Patek Philippe Caliber 324 A QA features sweep seconds, 34 jewels, a 45 hour power reserve, 356 individual parts and is stamped with the Geneva Seal.
Strap is a dark brown, hand sewn Patek crocodile strap with an 18k rose gold deployant clasp.
Watch is like new, and will be delivered with box and papers.



 This piece is offered at ONLY $39,000. Link


Check back later, should have a very cool video Review! -JKS

Monday, September 26, 2011

Interesting Forum Post.

I found this post today as I was combing the forums and thought I would share.

"6542 GMT master mystery"



Back in the 70's I managed to get a pilot's license. Every pilot needs a pilot's watch and I found a GMT master, used, probably around 1976. I was young then. They could have sold me an orange with "GMT MASTER" engraved on it and I would have worn it proudly.


In the 80's I had it serviced in Geneva and a little later lost the bezel (it must have popped off).


Years went by and in 2000 we moved back to the States from England. The shippers told us to wrap all of our finery in clothes and pack them into the drawers of our dressers. The Rolex wasn't there when we unpacked. Well, there went my $500 watch.


A couple of months ago, looking for parts to something I was working on, I found a box full of old bathroom stuff: girl juice, girl paint, etc (I'm the only male here). There was an old purse as well. I was about to toss the whole lot but the purse felt heavy. Yup, my Rolex was back.


I went on line to find a bezel and innocently typed in the model, 6542, only to learn that the foolish & extravagant investment in a $500 watch during my youth may have been the best investment I have ever made.


The mystery now is what do I have? The model stamped between the band lugs is 6542; the SN, stamped at 6oclock is 2627XX. There are no other stamped markings. The bezel insert that I lost was a metal insert, not Bakelite. The red hand has a rather larger arrow than some of the pictures I have seen. The crystal is plastic with the "cyclops" window.


I cannot get the back open but I have not yet resorted to the vise-grips.


The watch runs okay but needs additional winding or it will occasionally stop. So, I do what any self respecting Rolex owner would do: I set the alarm clock for 3am and get up and wind my watch.


Thanks in advance 



I will Follow this post and keep readers updated.

Update! 9/27/2011  
Here's an update with the pictures provided by owner. 


Okay, finally, some pics; I hope.

Er, the vice-grip thing was something I'd have done at a younger age. If I had been meant to have patience I'd have been a doctor. But the tools shall remain in the garage and the watch on my wrist.

I wear this watch every day, as can be seen by the crystal. In fact I rarely take it off. The only problem being when I whack my wife in the night and she wakes me up. Although, sometimes that works out okay too.

Ah, but the poor thing seems naked without the bezel. I've found an aftermarket one at classicwatchparts.com that looks like the bakelite ones. I haven't decided to go for it yet though. $330 is not insignificant.

If anyone has a better source I'd be glad to hear about it.

Thanks again, and sorry it takes me so logn to get with it. 



New Video Reviews + More! Coming Tuesday!


New Youtube video review of the Rolex 6234 "Pre-Daytona" & The Rolex 116520 Daytona.

 I have some exciting things slated for tomorrow.  Trust me, you will not want to miss these! A 15 minute review is being loaded as I write this.  Also, I just got back from a weekend trip to New York and visited many Dealers and Boutiques.  I have a full audio/ written post on what dealers I loved and the dealers I did not care for.  So, definately check the Swiss Monster this week should have tons of goodies.


-JKS


Photobucket

Monday Act Of Bling!

Add this to your Wife or Girlfriend's wrist and she will become the envy of every lady in the world.  The $200,000 price tag is a nominal fee for such an opportunity.  Nothing says I love you like diamonds and this and a flashlight could illuminate Madison Square garden.  This is what I call BLING!


Bling Bling Glitter Graphics

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Off To N.Y

Sorry guys, I won't be posting again until Monday the 26th.  The good news is I plan on visiting tons of vintage watch shops and A.Ds and Boutiques while in Manhatten. So expect alot of post material this coming week. Keep checking back; I may be able to post a few spoiler pics.




-JKS
(The Head Swiss Monster)