It's Bay Watch Tuesday!! (Cancelled)

Seriously, no goodies!

:(

Misadventures of a Tudor Submariner 7928 w/cal. 390 (Fleurier 350)

Hello Swiss Monsters,

Recently on one of my many watch hunting safari's, I came across a beautiful Tudor 7928. While the piece managed to maintain a sense of charm, it was badly in need of T.L.C. The worst of it was the fact that it was also in need of parts. 

If the Tudor 7928 was like it's "Big Brother" (The Rolex 5513 Submariner), this would be an easy feat as there are 5513 parts everywhere. Unfortunately, as another collector put it Tudor 7928s parts are unobtanium (a fictitious material) , so in short really really hard to come by.

The Tudor cal. 390 is actually a Rolex customized Fleurier 350 (As confirmed by a scan of a best fit book found on VRF). What does this really mean, Fleurier made a movement under Rolex specs. Rolex then made additional modifications, in this case to the rotor mechanism. 

Of course, my with luck! The piece the Tudor I found needs belongs to the rotor assembly... Luckily, I did not purchase the piece or even make an offer, otherwise chances are I would be up sh*& creek. The truth is, sometimes a buyer/collector/Swiss Monster must know when to walk away.

A few more details on the piece that I cam across (as well as photos).

Dial: Poorly repainted. A proper dial would set me back $1000+

Bracelet: Jubilee Rolex Datejust replacement.

Movement: Missing the rarest portion of the movement! I could purchase an entire cal. 390 for approx $600, but after the dial I would be in an addition $1600+ bracelet.

Remember Swiss Monsters, 

The piece is not always meant to be yours. No matter how emotionally charged you are over a piece, pause a moment and think.

-JKS

Random Act Of Beauty! Vacheron Constantin.

Alright, so I gave Vacheron's new coffin, I mean tourneau shaped watch a hard time last week. I won't delete the post but after some flack, I'll clarify. It is not to my taste, however, it DOES not get any better than V.C. I love the brand and the wonderful history it preserves. So, without further delay----

 -JKS

P.S I'm sorry Vacheron Constantin, will you be my Valentine ?

Repost #4 Spotlight: Vintage Guru Tom Bolt.

Happy Monday, Swiss Monsters. I have a favorite of mine being re-posted. This video shows the life of a vintage watch dealer. Most importantly, it shows some awesome watches!

-JKS

Vintage Rolex Magazine Circa 1963.

Hello Swiss Monsters, while browsing the net, I came across this beautiful vintage Rolex magazine. It is from 1963 and has some of the coolest photos that I've ever seen! This is vintage Rolex watch Porn!!!

(Click Photos To Make Larger)

   

-JKS

Stealth Wealth Wednsday!

Alright guys, you have money and enjoy a luxurious life but your not in Miami Beach, so there is no need to show off. So, What are you sporting on your wrist ?

 Scenario: 

You and a few friends are going out for a nice dinner and then a club. Well, you have a variety of options but assume someone at the club or in your entourage will be sporting a huge AP ROO or a Rolex DD. So, take the high rode and the opposite approach.

Vacheron Constantin

ref. 4961

This Vacheron Constanin not only says:  I have taste and "$" but that, I've also had it for a while. Most importantly,  I don't have to let others know.

This is Stealth Bling. 

(Below a few other accessories )

-JKS

Is It Halloween Yet?

Vacheron & Constantin is one of my favorite brands. There designs are often understated and beautiful...

And then there's this...

The tourneu shaped piece was announced at the SIHH 2012 and is a little different.

I'm not sure if making this watch look like a coffin was intentional, but geezer... 

Considering their logo is the Maltese cross, it's a bit creepy. Maybe I'm wrong? What are you guy's thoughts?

Vacheron's Official Statement Below:

In celebration of the first Vacheron Constantin tonneau watch launched in 1912 the Malte collection has been redesigned - perfectly classic in terms of spirit, yet eminently contemporary when it comes to their style.

Part of the new offerings is an exceptionally understated model displaying the hours, minutes and small seconds, which for horological purists represents one of the most demanding stylistic exercises.The Malte small seconds was born from this wish to offer a traditional timepiece featuring a simplicity equalled only by the refinement of its harmonious curves. It comes in an 18K pink gold case measuring 36.7 x 47.6 mm. The hour-markers and the 12 and 6 o’clock Roman numerals, also in pink gold, have been redesigned so as to smoothly follow the new curve that has been given to the tonneau-shaped case. The hour and minute hands, as well as the small seconds at 6 o’clock, are all driven by the Vacheron Constantin 4400 AS movement. Acknowledged for the care devoted to ensuring its reliability and for its exceptional level of finishing, it bears the Hallmark of Geneva, the symbol of horological expertise and excellence. The new Malte small seconds model is fitted with a strap in brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, complete with a Malte cross-shaped pink gold buckle.

The Malte small seconds also meets the new Hallmark of Geneva criteria. Instated in 1886 by the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva, the Hallmark of Geneva is a guarantee of origin, of craftsmanship, of durability and of expertise. This unique quality label has just undergone a fundamental transformation, since the certification no longer concerns the calibre alone, but the timepiece as a whole. This new approach represents a major evolution of this independent certification that has enjoyed the longstanding support of Vacheron Constantin and which has just decided to respond more fully than ever before to the legitimate expectations of an ever more informed clientele.

It's Bay Watch Tuesday!! (Cancelled)

Sorry Guys, I don't see any great deals on the bay (ebay) today. I do see a lot of counterfeit pieces, as usual though.

-JKS

What Is A Breguet Hairspring?

Watch enthusiast hear the term "Breguet Hairspring" all the time But what is it and how are they different than other types?  I found myself asking this question the other day and came across a great site that explains all of this.

MAKE SURE TO VISIT THIS SITE! It is loaded with valuable horological information.

http://hiro.alliancehorlogere.com/en/Main_Page

Overcoil Hairsprings(Breguet Hairspring)

The overcoil hairspring, which comes in a variety of forms and is most often referred to as a Bréguet hairspring or Bréguet overcoil, is an ideal form of hairspring with which near perfect timekeeping can be achieved. Specifically, unlike a normal, curbed, flat hairspring, the overcoil form allows the spring to breathe concentrically, thus paving the way for perfect Isochronism. Since its realization by Bréguet, nearly 200 years ago, the overcoil hairspring has undergone numerous alterations and improvements through great study, trial, error, and success, by other great watchmakers such as Philips and Grossman. Before the advent of Silicium based hairsprings, this type of spring was considered - and is still considered by many - to be the best form of hairspring for any watch. Helical or cylindrical springs, are used in marine chronometers and some pocket watches, but have not been deemed to perform any better than a single overcoil Bréguet hairspring.

Overcoil hairsprings are made from flat springs by the workman who springs the watch. They cannot be obtained for order as some flat hairsprings can, however it is sometimes possible for the common watchmaker to obtain one to meet a repair as part of a Balance-complete. Most overcoil springs today are made from Nivarox. Older pocket watches, with compensated balances are normally outfitted with tempered and blued steel hairsprings of overcoil form. Sometimes springs of Palladium wire are also used, especially in earlier, non-magnetic watches, as Palladium does not rust and cannot be magnetized.

-JKS

It's Monday , So How About An Act Of BOND !!!

It's Monday , So How About An Act Of Bond!!!

 

By the way that is Floris 89, the fragrance Bond wears.

-JKS

Inside Patek Philippe Museum.

As reported originally on Hodinkee.com originally.

John Reardon, head of Sotheby's New York watch department & Author of LINK Shows us around.

-JKS

Random Act Of Beauty! Panerai.

Officine Panerai Radiomir California 3 Days

SIHH 2012 Announcement.

Description by: Jorge Merino of TZ.com

The case, in stainless steel, measures 47mm. It has an AR-coated sapphire crystal, a sapphire display back, and is water resistant to 100 meters.

Movement is the Swiss manual-wind Panerai in-house caliber P.3000 with 21 jewels, 21,600 vph and a power reserve of 3 days.


-JKS

Audemars Piguet 15300 Review by a TZ Buddy.

AP 15300 Review by bsodmike.
Mike is an avid watch & pen enthusiast as well as a TZ forum buddy.

-JKS

Ridiculous Rolex "For Sale" Ad.

This "For Sale" ad is pretty hilarious. Highlights in the description include 18K Silver + London,France. Geez, some people need to read a book or three.

-JKS

ROLEX a supporter of PIPA & SOPA !!!!!

Supporters of PIPA and SOPA: RIAA, MPAA, News Corp, TimeWarner, Walmart, Nike, Tiffany, Chanel, Rolex, Sony, Juicy Couture, Ralph Lauren, VISA, Mastercard, Comcast, ABC, Dow Chemical, Monster Cable, Teamsters, Rupert 

Opponents of PIPA and SOPA: Google, Yahoo, Wikipedia, craigslist, Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn, eBay, AOL, Mozilla, Reddit, Tumblr, Etsy, Zynga, EFF, ACLU, Human Rights Watch.

https://www.google.com/landing/takeaction/https://www.google.com/landing/takeaction/

I AM VERY DISAPPOINTED  ROLEX !!!!!


-JKS

Double Random Act of Beauty! AP SIHH 2012.

This is another stunning piece by AP premiered at the SIHH 2012 (ongoing). 

For those unfamiliar with the SIHH 2012 show:

The SIHH is :

THE SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE:  AN EXCLUSIVE EVENT In more than twenty Shows, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) has confirmed it is a landmark event for the Fine Watch sector.
The SIHH is where brands premiere their latest watches, the result of often years of intensive research.  The SIHH is also where watchmakers and designers, the representatives of an entire creative team, share their passion for watchmaking one-to-one.

 Official Site:

HERE

While, everyone admires their "Royal Oak lines" it is amazing to me how underrated their "Jules Audemars" collection is.  This collection features pieces as horologically sound as Patek Philippe.

Below are pictures of: * Limited edition Jules Audemars watches for the Chinese market, with enamel and engraved 'dragon' dials, and a Perpetual Calendar with an engraved 'dragon' rotor.

 

Photos by TZ Audemars Piguet moderator, Paul Boutros: CLICK FOR FULL REPORT:

-JKS

Random Act Of Beauty! AP Royal Oak Offshore Grand Prix

Alright guys, I think it is more than obvious that I am a ROLEX guy. However, I do love watches in general. One of my favorite brands is "AP" or Audemars Piguet (Pronounced: Awd de-mar "Pee" "Kay") Below is a fantastic representative of some of the forward thinking designs that Audemars is known for.

Specs: AP Royal Oak Offshore Grand Prix

Forged carbon case with a black leather strap. Black dial with skeleton hands and index hour markers. Tachymeter scale appears around the outer rim. Dial Type: analog. Date display appears at the 3 o'clock position. Three:12- hours, 30- minutes and 60- seconds sub dials. Automatic movement. Scratch resistant sapphire crystal. Case diameter: 44 mm x 56 mm. Case thickness: 15.7 mm. Water resistant at 100 meters/ 330 feet. Luxury watch style.

These wonderful photos were taken by a fellow TZ forum member: Socal to AZ

P.S If you are an AP Fan visit Here to read about the latest homage for the 40th anniversary of the Gerald Genta original designed AP Royal Oak.

Spoiler:

Another source for SIHH info is the report from Timezone.com

HERE

-JKS

Blog Find: What does "adjusted", "unadjusted" and "regulated" mean ?

 *I found the post below on one of my favorite blogs and wanted to share.*

An "unadjusted" movement is a movement where no attempt has been made to ensure that the daily error rate in several orientations (positions) have been minimized or optimized across the positions. An "adjusted" movement, therefore, has had some extra care in ensuring that the variance in accuracy between several orientations is minimized.
Watches are typically adjusted to 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 positions. Traditionally, they are ordered as follows:

1. Dial Up
2. Crown Down
3. Dial Down
4. Crown Left
5. Crown Up
6. Crown Right
For example, a watch adjusted to two positions include positions 1 & 2 from the above list (i.e. face up and crown down). Similarly, a watch adjusted for 4 positions has been adjusted in positions 1-4, and so on. Watches can also be adjusted for isochronism (i.e. constant time across varying states of wind) and temperature. Some manufacturers (Franck Muller, and Patek Phillipe) adjusts to 8 positions (the above six plus two half-way orientations); though this is a bit over-the-top, but that takes a lot of works to achieve that position accuracy.
All Rolex Chornometers are adjusted to Five Positions! refer to above Picture.
A "regulated" movement is a when the overall rate of the entire movement (either adjusted or not) is brought into correct absolute timing. Unlike adjustment, this is a simple tweak, which moves the daily rates of all of the positions up or down without intentionally changing the relative rates in positions.

HK snob

(The above was borrowed from

HK snob, he has a

  wonderful blog: Here , )

-JKS

What is the Difference between Rolex ref. 5512 & 5513.

 What is the difference between the Rolex 5512 & 5513?

This seems to be a common question asked by both collector's and semi-enthusiast. When one compares a ref. 5512 & 5513 from the same period, at first glance they appear identical. *They are both "No-Date" Subs, a term that is very annoying to collector's by the way

(If you notice above I made a "*" I will elaborate on this comment in a bit.) Both the 5512 & 5513 are found exclusively in Stainless Steel and share both the same bezel and dial color configuration (black on black). They are even fitted on the same bracelets (The particular pictures below depict different bracelets, though the original issued bracelets would have been the same.)

The photo below is of a Rolex Submariner 5512. This particular 5512 was owned by a Celebrity (Aficionados are smiling right about now.)

 This photo below is Rolex Submariner ref. 5513. As one can see the these pieces are identical, or are they?

 Find the difference? Look closely at the dial and read all of the text twice. Give up? Well, look below the difference is the additional text on the dial of the 5512.

Whats does my COSC note mean? Simple, the 5512 was COSC tested. At the time all *"No Date" Submariners were not tested and awarded as superlative chronometers.

Virtually all Rolex watches post 1990 are COSC certifed.

But, What is a COSC timpiece exactly? What does it really mean ? (From Wiki Below)

Each officially certified COSC chronometer (Watch) is unique, and identified by a serial number engraved on its movement and a certification number given by the COSC.

Testing criteria is based on ISO 3159 which provides the definition of a wrist-chronometer with spring balance oscillator. Only movements which meet the precision criteria established under ISO 3159 are granted an official chronometer certificate.

Each movement is individually tested for fifteen days, in five positions, at three different temperatures. Based on these measurements, seven eliminatory criteria are calculated, the minima of which must all be met e.g. for movements of a diameter over 20 mm, indicated in seconds/day:

Average daily rate: -4/+6
Mean variation in rates: 2
Greatest variation in rates: 5
Difference between rates in H & V positions: -6/+8
Largest variation in rates: 10
Thermal variation: ± 0.6
Rate resumption: ± 5

COSC have developed their own standard for testing quartz chronometers with eight eliminatory criteria:

Average daily rate at 23 °C: ± 0.07
Rate at 8 °C: ± 0.2
Rate at 38 °C: ± 0.2
Rate stability: 0.05
Dynamic rate: ± 0.05
Temporary effect of mechanical shocks: ± 0.05
Residual effect of mechanical shocks: ± 0.05, 200 shocks equivalent to 100 G (981 m/s²)
Rate resumption: ± 0.05

Measurements are based on a time base established by two independent atomic clocks synchronized on GPS time.

So, let's review the fundamental difference of Rolex ref. 5512 vs. 5513. Below is a quote from a TRF member. It is concise and well... perfect.

"The main difference is the fact that the 5512 has the chronometer rated movement and the 5513 does not. 5512's produced with 2 lines of print on the dial do not have the chronometer rating on the dial. As the 5513 started production, they needed to have a way to tell the difference between the two references. So the 5512 started to have 4 lines of print, the last two reading "superlative chronometer officially certified". The 5513 just had 2 lines of print. Both were made with gilt gloss dials and pointed crown guards early on."

  

Now, that you know the difference. Here's a bit more information. Remember the "*" seen above. 

Maybe not?  

*They are both "No-Date" Subs, a term that is very annoying to collector's by the way--

The reason, I placed a star here was to share with you something I learned the hard way. Most established collector's hate the term "No Date Sub, Submariner". The reason is because the Submariner did not have a date aperture until around 1965 with the introduction of the ref. 1680. In short the model we all know and love was a NON-DATE model. So a Submariner should be reffered to simply as:

A Submariner.

Or

A Submariner date.

Here's another little esoteric bit of info: If you are speaking with an Italian or English collector (others as well) They may pronounce the word "Submariner"

as: SubMarine---errr

Cheers! 

The head Swiss Monster.

-JKS

It's All Greek To Me.

A Gentleman on the VRF is selling a beautiful Rolex 1655, a.k.a Freccione/Steve Mcqueen/Orange hand explorer. The 1655 is a complete package with Box & Service papers. The Service papers are from Athens, Greece.

And well.... It's All Greek To Me.

Click to ENLARGE.

This beautiful 1655 is available HERE.

-JKS

Bay Watch Tuesday: EBAY Warning!!!

Rolex 6036 One of my favorites.

Unfortunately, the model below is not Authentic. This is currently being offered on ebay. There are so many things wrong with this, I can not elaborate. It is The Swiss Monster's opinion this is as FAKE as it comes.

EBAY LINK.

Please note that this is my opinion, I am not a Rolex certified watch technician or authorized spokesperson.

Below is a proper movement: 

For more info on the Jean Claude Kiley/ref. 6036/6236/Dato Compax Visit Below:


Best Rolex Site

-JKS