N.Y Watch Dealers Reviews!

Alright Guys, I just came back from a weekend trip to N.Y.  My objective while in the city was to visit as many Vintage/Modern Watch Dealers as possible.  I am  happy to say that I visited most on my list.  I found that many of the dealers were extremely knowledgeable and qualified while others were sub-par.  It is my opinion that I should share my findings to the readers of this blog. It seems so many other sites are afraid to offer reviews on Dealers/Boutiques.  I promised to offer my true opinions and this is one more fulfillment of this.  I would like to preface by saying none of the dealers I visited were rude or dismissive and every shop I visited had a courteous staff.

Rating System
I have come up with a rating system which uses a common term "Lumes".  As most WIS (Watch Idiot Savant's) know lume is the modern luminescent/glowing material used on dials.  Just as a watch has twelve main numerical indicators (1-12 o'clock).   I will rate the dealers I visited with 1-12 Lumes. 1 being the lowest and 12 being stellar.  The Lumes a dealer receives will be based upon service & inventory (6 for Service 6 for inventory).

Central Watch

40 East 45th Street
New York, NY 10017-3190

The first shop I visited was within stepping distance of my hotel (The Roosevelt).  This shop has been in business since 1952 and has been located in the same part of Central Station since it's opening.  It is important to note this shop does not have an impressive walk in showroom with fancy or ornate fixtures.  This shop is essentially a concession stand located within a corridor in Central Station.  This was initially confusing and disappointing.  However, after a closer look at the inventory and a few words with a salesman, I was wonderfully surprised.  Amongst the selection were some unusual and amazing timepieces, such as an : Omega Pre-Pro/Moon Speedmasters, an early Rolex sterling cushion-shaped watch with Fleur De-lis hands as well some other beautiful vintage pieces by Patek Phillipe and Audemars Piguet.  Central watch also had an awesome array of straps. Including all thing NATO (Seriously, every NATO strap a man could want!). It was the salesman and Owner who were, in my opinion, the shops biggest assets. T hey were extraordinarily knowledgeable and genuinely happy to discuss vintage timepieces.  Their passion came through but did not lead them to be pushy or even necessarily eager to push a sale. They graciously retrieved pieces to show me that were displayed and even showed some pieces that were put away.  The salesman instantly recognized my Rolex 6234 and paid a compliment.  The owner of the shops were even happy to tell me other shops I should visit in the area.

I would have to award Central Watch  with a total of:

6/6 For service.

4/6 For inventory.

10 Lumes! (I highly enjoyed my visit and definately recommend visiting!!)

 
Aaron Faber Gallery

666 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10103

On West 53rd Street, between 5th and 6th

The second shop on the list was the Aaron Faber Gallery.  This shop is internationally known and respected. The shop has been in the business since 1974 and specializes in contemporary studio jewelry, classic jewelry new and old, and collectible vintage timepieces.  The lay-out of the shop was also surprising to me.  It was not stuffy with the timepieces behind a large counter with armed guards. The timepieces and jewelry were displayed on the walls and in table top cases (Please note I do not mean to insinuate this store is not secure-quite the contrary!).  Upon walking into the gallery a Saleswoman introduced herself and expressed a genuine eagerness to help. I told her I had a specific interest in vintage Rolex timepieces and she ushered me to "The Wall".  Featured within were some of the most amazing pieces I saw on my trip.  The timepiece that immediately captured my attention was a Rare Rolex 6036.  I asked to see the piece and the saleswoman happily obliged. I held the piece and was amazed at the detail of the so-called "Jean Claude-Kiley".  I compared it to my 6234 and was amazed to compare the similarities and differences (The most obvious the added complications of Day, Date,Month and the case in yellow gold).  The dial was in such a beautiful state, I asked if it was original to the watch or if it had been replaced/restored.  The saleswoman gladly walked in the back and asked the watchmaker.  The answer was :"Yes Sir, Completely Original!" I carefully handed the piece over to the salesperson.  While, I would have loved to add the watch to the collection the timing is not right (My timing, that is).  Another piece I asked to see what an awesome Rolex 5517  Royal Navy Military Submariner (less than 1300 examples produced).  The piece was amazing. The solid fixed bar lugs were very cool to see in person, as was the special dial and hands.  Amongst the collection were various beautiful modern Patek Philippes as well as a few vintage Audemars.  The saleswoman informed me that the collection I was viewing was not complete, as some of it had been brought to a show in Hong Kong. Please visit the video link below for more on the Aaron Farber gallery.

Youtube Video Of Aaron Farber

So it's rating time.  I would have to award Aaron Farber Gallery with the following:

Service  6/6 Lumes

Selection 6/6 Lumes
12/12 Lumes! Definitely recommend. Please note the MOMA (Metropolitan Museum Of Modern Art) is just steps away!

Wempe Jewelry

700 5th Avenue

New york, NY 10019-4145

The third shop on the list was Wempe. Wempe is an old European jeweler that has been in business since 1878. The shop is an authorized dealer for Rolex, Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Sohne, Patek, Hublot, Paneriai, Audemars Piguet+.  There is not much to say about this shop.  It is huge and the salespeople were not extraordinarily helpful and from what I can assess knowledgeable, but their inventory was extensive (with the exception of Vacheron Constantin). My judgement may be a bit harsh, but this is a premiere dealer is one of the most significant cities in the world. While there I asked to see one piece, this was the Hublot King Power. I literally had to ask a salesperson to help me. I inquired first about an awesome Hublot holographic display and then about a King Power. The Saleslady retrieved the piece and then stared and awaited a question.  So, I fed her one "Does this feature Hublot's in-house movement?" She responded "I'm not sure." she turned to the salesperson walking around aimlessly and asked "Does this timepiece have the Unico Movement?".  The other salesperson looked at the piece and said "Yes." I thought  to myself, at least they know about the Hublot in-house Unico.  I then looked at the Rolex section and wasn't helped or asked if I was looking for something again.

So Wempe's rating :

Service  3/6 Lumes (Mention of a specific caliber helped)

Selection 6/6 Lumes


9/12 Lumes.  Huge selection! Not that great of a staff IMHO.


Cartier Boutique
653 Fifth Avenue
New York, NY 10022

I have to be honest.  I am not a huge fan of Cartier watches with the following exceptions: The Cartier Santos, Tank Americaine + Some of the ornate jeweled pieces and any tourbillon pieces.  I walked directly over to the watch department and was greeted promptly.  I expressed an interest in a Tourbillon  and was allowed to handle and urged to try it own.  The Salesman was a very friendly guy and seemed passionate and proud of his employer Cartier.  I enjoyed my brief look around and was mesmerized by the beautiful store. I will not rate this boutique because of insufficient watch related material/variation.  I would definitely recommend visiting.


Tourneau 
510 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10022 

 The fifth shop on the list was Tourneu.  What can I say... I am always amazed at the complete lack of knowledge the people employed here seem to have.  I have visited probably five locations and it is the same story at all. I walked into the store on Madison Ave and hoped for a different level of service but unfortunately was met with the same upset. Immediately upon entering, I was hounded by a hungry Saleswoman. She seemed disheveled and in my opinion, overly aggressive.  I asked if there were any vintage Rolex timepieces. "Yes, we have quite a few."  I was brought into a nook with three other salespeople. I spotted a book on vintage Rolex Chronographs(Thinking to myself this is right up my alley!)  I looked inside a glass display in the center of the room that housed their "pre-owned" pieces.  I looked up and said "Oh, I meant vintage, not pre-owned."  The salesperson to the right of me said "There's one in there from 1940 or something." I said "OK-I'll have a look."  They show me a Precision from the 1960's for $3,000.  I reply "Ok. No thanks. Do you guys have any vintage chronographs or any rarer pieces?"  The two salespeople looked at each other as if I had asked for Frog-guts on a silver platter.  The other salesperson chimed in by saying "We have one just like this! (while pointing to the picture of a 3-color Paul Newman Cosmograph on a Mondani book cover).  My eyes lit up! The other Salespeople replied "We Do?"  "Yes", he responded "It's upstairs but it's  a brand new one" (This is where I exited deflated and depressed.)

So rating total: 6 Lumes. 
Lots of inventory but not much intelligence.


Officini Panerai Boutique 
545 Madison Ave # A
New York, NY 10022-4219

Sixth on the list was the Panerai Boutique.  .I would definitely purchase an original Panerai especially the Radiomir 3646's (At a good price).  I would also be interested in purchasing a piece, if it were a Boutique special-edition(Update** I have purchased a Pam 390***).  I walked into the Panerai store and was greeted by a Saleswoman and was asked if I was looking for something in particular. I asked if there were any pieces exclusive to the Boutique.  I was shown a gold Radiomir that didn't really do it.  I continued to look around and noticed that there was more inventory in the window than in the store. Seriously, there were like 20 total pieces! I asked if this was the complete showroom (didn't want to miss a room!). The Saleswoman informed me most of their pieces were Special Order .  I nodded and replied " I see."  The saleswoman just stared at me with a placid look on her face.  I thanked her and walked out.  It was then I noticed an interesting piece in the window. A Panerai Egiazano model Pam 341. My Girlfriend's eyes lit up. It truly was an interesting piece. We walked back in and asked to see it. The saleswoman gladly retrieved it from the window and allowed us to have a look. The piece was really quite beautiful. It is HUGE 60mm. I asked her what she knew of it. I was familiar with the history but assumed she would surely tell me something interesting. She responded "It was made for The Egyptian army in the 1960 or 70's." I replied, "There was also another made for the Egyptians, a small Egiazono correct?" The saleswoman replied "No, this is the only one I know about." I let this go seeing most people may not know of the historical contributions of a company they worked for. I noticed the piece was really light weight. I asked what it was made of? The Saleswoman responded "Stainless Steel." I flipped it over to notice engraved in the back the word "TITANIUM". 

So it's rating time. At a Boutique I expect a higher level of knowledge.  This knowledge should include historical facts with accuracy (Especially for a brand that lives on there past!)  I also expect quite a selection. The selection was comical! I would also expect to see an original 1930's or 40's Panerai displayed. I mean Ralph Lauren has one at his N.Y.C store!

Service  4/6 Lumes

Selection 3/6 Lumes (I've seen larger personal collections!)
7/12 Lumes (Don't waste your time. Just go to Tourneau.)


 -JKS

Excuse the typos. I intend to revise. I wanted to post this to share as soon as possible.


Remember to check my Video Review of Las Vegas Dealers HERE.